Archive for February 2012
Siberian Cat Tipday Thursday: How do I prevent poop clinging to kitty butts?
Sounds like a strange question but it’s actually one we get a lot though not as much from the 100% raw feeding homes. It still happens though and perhaps more so in winter with the fuller coats.
So far we’ve not found a fool proof system but it helps to figure out what may be causing the issue to begin with. It’s not just the long hairs though giving the cat a careful trim with some scissors just to get the hairs that straggle or hang too loose down the leg and underside of the tail can help. Some cats if they get very bad can be given what groomer’s call a “Sanitary trim” usually for Persians where they use an electric trimmer to shave most of the fur off the back of the legs.
The cat can be causing this too by not crouching properly while eliminating and this can be caused by a litter they don’t like being “odd” to their feet, too deep, hard to walk on or keep traction or the litter box could be too small so that they have to slouch and scrunch up and cannot get the crouch right. So, especially if you have a big cat make sure there’s a big enough box to fit at least two cats in. If you have more than one cat make sure you have a minimum of one box per cat and one extra. So three cats you would have four boxes placed around the home. If a cat feels rushed or harassed while using the box she may not use her box correctly. So, make sure she has options in case another cat is playing territory games not allowing others access to the litter boxes or the freedom to use them in peace. Also other pets and children.
The next possibility is that the cat is not getting enough liquids. Even with raw feeding they are missing out on the natural blood that would be in fresh kill prey. Most processing of food animals starts first with a bleeding out where the blood is drained from the carcass. Only one pet food company that I know of puts the blood back into the product and this is one of my many arguments for why even a 100% raw diet is not adequate in nutrients since the fresh blood is lost carrying with it many of the most important and bio-available vitamins and minerals not to mention moisture. Cats being obligate carnivores and we believe descended from desert dwellers are designed not to need to drink water so they do not often even when they need to do so. Dehydration can cause the feces to be too tacky or sticky so when it comes out without any mucus in the intestinal lining due to the dehydration it sticks to whatever surface it gets near including their fur, tail or even to their anus.
In order to make up for the loss of fluids in the food a simple fix is adding some filtered water into anything you feed especially commercial foods. This of course would negate the supposed “tooth cleaning benefit of kibble” but I find that difficult to swallow as believing Captain Crunch Cereal cleans children’s teeth. We add about 10% water to any raw food we mix up especially if we add any powdered or granular vitamins and probiotics.
Next could be a lack of fiber in the commercial diets. The unnatural grains in most commercial foods and even the non-grain ingredients like potato and peas can not move through as they should so adding a natural fiber can benefit them immensely. And all cats can benefit from the cleansing action of some Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth (only food grade, never commercial grade). The DE cleanses out parasites, protozoa and helps also pull out toxins and viruses. For information and studies on the efficacy of DE internally this article has several studies cited and quoted http://www.phdproducts.com/main/phdpage.asp?page=141.
Supplementing probiotics can help your cat digest his food better and the fecal matter is thus less abundant and less tacky/sticky as a result. We highly recommend all pets are put on Primal Defense powdered probiotic and also we now supplement with others such as Jarrow. We are looking into a more specific pet strain of probiotic to add and will be reviewing a new vitamin supplement that has it included in the weeks to come.
Last but not least we recommend feeding a quality high vitamin cod liver oil and also a fish oil such as sardine/anchovy oil by Iceland Pure. These oils add important highly bio-available nutrients missing from the diet (again, including raw due to processing, blood loss, aging in freezer and loss of freshness plus the poor soil quality in many countries). The oil can also act like a lube in the gut as any not digested will be eliminated and ease out stuck hairballs and help address constipation.
We hope this helps you get your cat out of that nasty mess so you can stop getting surprises found on floors and furnishings or when you pet your cat in your lap (eeew, we’ve all been there. Surprise!! kitty has cling-ons). Thank you to one of our kitten buyers and long time cat owner JM for submitting this question for our Siberian Cat Tipday Thursday. If you have a cat related question, it doesn’t have to be just Siberian cats please submit it in a comment or contact us! We can’t wait to hear from you. Until next time, here’s to clean kitty butts!
Pendraig Lazar the Silver Siberian Cat at 2 Years old
Photography by Cat’s Cradle Photography
I was overjoyed today to get to view the results of the photography session of one of the most beloved of our graduated Siberian Kittens at Pendraig. Lazar has the most amazing owner, who not only offers him love and comfort but has taught him some fun skills and tricks and continues his raw diet with the passion of dedication and love she bears for him. You can see how much he shines, not just because of good breeding and the short time he spent with us but because of the love and holistic care given by his “mommy”.
Lazar is out of TGC Jorrah Karat and one of most influential queens, though she is retired now, Sunbeam Lilyana Krasa of Pendraig. He is a lovely darker silver with green eyes. Though not as big as some of his brothers he is a good sized boy no doubt thanks to the large appetite he has and the nutritious raw food his owner provides.
Lazar and his owner share a special bond and it is one I hope they will share for many many years to come. Lazar is still growing, still has maturity to reach but it brings tears to my eyes to see how much he’s changed since he was a kitten and left us here for his new life.
I love you, Lazar. And I am overjoyed you have the love and home every cat deserves but not all get. Thank you, Carrie for your care of him which is evidenced daily and your constant and welcomed contact and updates that I cherish. Thank you also to the photographer Kim for capturing his beauty in all it’s glory. Cats are so much more difficult to photograph than anyone realizes. They never sit still even when sleeping!
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- Lazar at 2 years old, photographed by Cat’s Cradle
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- Lazar as an infant photo by Pendraig Siberians
How do I Control Fleas Naturally on my Siberian Cat?
Siberian Cat Tipday Thursday: Your questions answered.
I get this question a lot, and even as I write my natural and holistic care guide for cat owners people need immediate answers and help with spring around the corner. So, I’ve decided to share some of what will be in the book and also to start a new Thursday weekly blog where I answer your questions (you don’t have to have a Siberian Cat either!) Just comment with your questions and I will pick a new one every week.
Now, onto those disgusting and frustrating fleas!
Understanding the life-cycle of fleas is paramount to defeating them naturally. It is more detail than I will go into in a blog post but you can read the Wikipedia article for a breakdown. It is not pleasant to read about fleas, I know but you can get through it. It is especially difficult us girls with our squeamishness towards bugs but it’s better to learn about them than live with them!
“It is said that if you know your enemies and know yourself, you will not be imperiled in a hundred battles; if you do not know your enemies but do know yourself, you will win one and lose one; if you do not know your enemies nor yourself, you will be imperiled in every single battle.” – Sun Tzu
Never forget, it is a war you are fighting. Fleas can jeopardize the health, longevity, and happiness of your beloved Siberian cat or other pet. It is a war with many battles, and you must be strong, give no quarter and no compromise. Be prepared to win. Winning requires planning, discipline and quick action. You must strike not only at the adult fleas feasting off your Siberian cat but also at their home where they lay their eggs and where the larvae feast off flea “dirt” that falls off the animals. Fleas do not lay the eggs on the host. One vet taught this to me with a saying I will never forget so I pass it onto you. The fleas do not lay eggs on your Siberian Kitten or Cat but instead find other places. There is “too much motion in the ocean” so they lay their eggs somewhere more stable, your carpets, your upholstery, your lawn and in the bedding and sleeping areas of your pet. For this reason they make dog beds with cedar chips, but cats are extremely sensitive to wood oils and essential oils so it’s best not to go that route for them.
Strike first at the future generation. We use food grade diatomaceous earth (DE). This is found often in feed stores as it is still given to livestock internally to fight parasites (we use this internally at Pendraig for our pets and also for heavy metal detox myself). Food Grade DE is safe and effective and is becoming more mainstream as I see versions with “bait” at Home Depot for pest control. You can use that for your lawn but for the carpets, furniture and on your pet opt for the food grade DE from a trusted source. We buy ours from Azure Standard online and have it shipped, it is cheap the shipping costs more but if you are lucky Azure Standard will have a truck route in your area you can sign up for and they have many natural food, personal care and supplement items you can explore as well. I’ve also found it at RevivalAnimalHealth.com and Amazon.com.
Food Grade DE can be irritating to the lungs if inhaled so it’s best to do the dusting when you have the room cleared out and try no to get it billowing up in the air around you. If you are sensitive to dust inhalation wear a simple mask that is for fine particles. Do not ever use the commercial DE it is dangerous due to the high heat treatment it receives.
Dust carpets liberally and pay especial attention to low traffic areas such as under couches, tv stands, book shelves and in bedrooms. Allow it to sit in the carpet at least 2 days as this is the average time to penetrate deeply enough before you vacuum it up. We leave it in the hard to reach places as a deterrent.
When dusting your pet again limit their inhalation. I do this by either putting it into a seasoning shaker and carefully shaking it over their body as close to them as i can get and using my hand to work it in. If you don’t have one of those you can buy one at Amazon.com or your local World Market or kitchen supply stores. The metal kinds with handles work great. Alternatively you can just scoop it up in your hand and rub it in with the other hand a bit at a time. Pay special attention to the undersides of your Siberian cat. The tummy, under arms, neck and behind the ears.
If you live somewhere with lots of rain or moisture outside DE probably won’t work well. The best route then for the outdoors and lawn is to purchase nematodes. These tiny creatures are harmless to you, your pets and the plants but will destroy all types of pests and their young. These can be found at most garden centers and home improvement stores. Nematodes require moisture themselves so you may need to reapply after a dry spell.
If your pet is especially infested a bath is in order. Fleas will drown pretty easily and just allowing a good shampooing to sit on the Siberian Cat (or other pet) for about 5 minutes will do the trick. With a bad infestation as we saw when we did rescue we would apply a ring of shampoo around the neck just behind the ears and around under the chin because the fleas will climb up the body towards the head when the pet gets wet. This is a natural reaction for them because in the wild cat or wolf would swim with their head above water if submerged for some reason. The shampoo ring there will prevent them getting away and jumping off the head to hide. Fleas are amazing jumpers and excellent at hiding out until the coast is clear so don’t give them the chance. After applying the ring work the shampoo all over the body and finish up around the head but be careful of the eyes. We use an all natural pet shampoo for this, be careful of anything with essential oils or harsh detergents.
A flea comb is a good tool to have while you wait those 5 minutes you can begin combing out fleas. Have a shallow dish next to the sink with soapy water and you can dip the comb into it when you catch a flea to assure they are drowned. Work the flea comb through the fur going down the body (not against the grain as this will irritate your already irritated Siberian cat). If you have a kitten they could get chilled fast so perhaps cut the shampoo time to 2 or 3 minutes.
Rinse gently with warm water, but thoroughly leaving no residue behind. When you think you are done rinse another 2 minutes.
You can now blow dry your Siberian Cat or if they really hate that just use a shami type towel (Revival’s “Metro Towels” are great) to wick away as much moisture as you can and let them groom themselves and give you dirty looks. If you have a kitten this is an excellent time to get them used to the blow dryer. You can also purchase a specialty dryer that works with a carrier and put the cat in there on a shami towel and set up the fan but be sure they do not get over heated or overwrought.
Once your pet is fully dry, and if you are dealing with a bad infestation or close neighbors with pets and a dog bringing it indoors. We hope none of your cats are allowed at liberty outside but instead kept in escape proof enclosures, where flea remedy may be necessary.
If you do this right you should cease having a flea problem by the end of the week.
Finally the ultimate way to combat the flea is to make your Siberian cat or other pet unappealing as possible. The best way to do this is to feed them a species appropriate and nutrient dense diet. This means for our Siberian Cats a raw and natural diet with organs, bones, fat and preferably pasture raised animal meat. Adding some high quality brewer’s yeast and probiotics helps also. Fleas prefer a host that is unhealthy with an immune system too exhausted to fight them off. We find our raw fed animals do not get fleas unless exposed to a heavily infested animal or environment and then only briefly. (We had one unlucky kitten pick up some fleas while traveling via cargo but this is unusual and must have been an extremely infested animal that exposed her.) A healthy immune system also requires plenty of quality, animal source Vitamin D which we supply with the organs we feed but also with a high vitamin cod liver oil.
For dogs you have extra options of creating citrus sprays at home, and adding some pest repellent herbs such as rosemary. Cats however are very sensitive to many oils so it is best in general to avoid this for them. However many of our Siberian Cat owners have dogs as well so we share the recipe so you can spray your dog down before he or she goes out and limit the likelihood of them bringing in pests. Also remember, the same diet rules apply to them as well. A truly healthy dog will repel fleas.
And an extra CAUTION here… Essential oils can cause serious damage to your cat, including neurological symptoms and even death. I’ve seen many recipes for natural flea repellents which are fine for most dogs but do not ever put or use an essential oil on or around your cat. If your cat loves rubbing on, playing with or sleeping on your dog do not use it on them either.
(Natural Flea spray RECIPE in an upcoming post. My book will feature a number of recipes an options so be sure to check it out!)
Contracts Protect the Buyers of Siberian Kittens Too
Recently I’ve been a bit surprised and dismayed at how many people out there shopping for purebred kittens do not understand the most fundamental protection available for themselves and the kitten they are purchasing, the contract. I have had what seemed like intelligent and caring buyers turn away when faced with signing a contract that they’ve not even seen yet because they feel it is too restrictive on their pet ownership rights. But what they do not seem to realize is that contract is there to protect their rights, to protect the kitten and to protect the breeder as well.
A good, responsible and ethical breeder will always require you to sign a contract of sale. This contract then acts as your guarantee and warranty. It spells out the purchase agreement so it also functions as a receipt and proof of the sale which is of vital importance to the buyer as well as the seller. How do you know you are not getting scammed by someone pretending to have kittens for sale if they aren’t offering a contract? How do you expect to get a health guarantee, and proof you are receiving a healthy kitten without a contract? How do you know what the steps are to have any health guarantees honored? Without a contract you don’t. Without a contract you won’t have any health guarantees or proof that you bought that kitten at all.
A good and responsible Siberian cat breeder will provide a contract that first describes the kitten or cat being purchased and lists the microchip number (if they chip, which most still do not but we do), the registration numbers if they are available at the time of sale (more often the case with retired adults), and the sex (plus intact status), color, date of birth, names of the parents and any other identifying marks. This means the contract also acts as your proof that you own the cat or kitten. This could become important in a court hearing if someone were to falsely accuse you of stealing the cat you’d have proof of sale. Just like a title to your car or a deed to your house. And this is before any registration papers may be available (they take time to process especially through TICA).
A good and responsible Siberian Cat breeder outlines the terms of the sale, so you know exactly how much money is owed with no hidden fees to surprise you at the end. It will also outline what happens if you fail to make payment as promised, since it’s not fair to leave a kitten and breeder hanging there while you disappear or decide not to finish the purchase. It also makes it clear when the transfer of ownership occurs and declares you rights to ownership of the kitten so the breeder cannot sell him or her again without legal consequences.
A good and responsible Siberian Cat breeder offers at minimum a 24 month health guarantee against congenital defects. That is genetic disorders that often do not appear until maturity which for a Siberian Cat only starts at 12 months old and often doesn’t finish until 5 years of age. If you have less of a guarantee then by the time your vet can pick up on the signs your guarantee has run out. If you have no contract at all, you have no guarantees at all and kitten is sold “as is” which may mean sick or dying or costing you thousands of dollars to treat. And the priceless costs of grief to you and your family.
An exceptional breeder offers much more than just the standard health guarantee but includes the rare and deadly FIP disease, as we do because there’s no way to guarantee against it happening and no cure. An exceptional breeder offers a longer health guarantee because they know they are raising healthy cats, have done important health screening of breeding cats and DNA testing and that they are selling only healthy cats and kittens as we do. In fact we are unique in offering up to a 12 year health guarantee if you opt to feed the Ideal Diet and follow the Ideal Care plan. But it’s optional.
A responsible Siberian cat breeder has a contract that states you were sold a healthy kitten and requires you to take the kitten to the vet within a small time frame of your receipt of the kitten to prove the cat is healthy and to set that baseline of health with your veterinarian. The contract will also require you to take care of your kitten, to provide minimums of care and has certain restrictions for the well being of your kitten but also often for your own good. Take declawing for example, banned by my contract, is a cruel and inhumane treatment of the animal and there are other ways to avoid problems with scratching. The procedure also often leads to behavior problems that may make your life miserable with your pet and jeopardize your happiness and the cat’s future as part of your home including litter box aversion leading to inappropriate elimination. So once again you see the contract is protecting the buyer.
This list is far from complete but I hope it gives you an idea of why contracts are so important and why you should not only be happy to find a breeder who requires contracts for sale of their Siberian kittens but it should be a requirement you have of any breeder. If they don’t have a contract, and a good health guarantee you should walk away. Find a good and responsible Siberian cat breeder. Find a contract that asserts that responsibility so that you can enjoy a worry free experience as a new Siberian kitten or Siberian Cat owner.
